Concrete Patio Table (Part 2. Placing Concrete)

After a few more cans of spray foam and sanding, the shape was pretty close. This reminds me of building the molds for concrete canoes, although on a much smaller scale. The bottom square is the 3" mounting base. Then the table underside tapers from 2 inches thick in the middle to 1 inch at the edge. Since the foam is hard to get real smooth and with a short time frame to get this done, I lined the mold with plastic. It will either 1. look cool, or 2. need a bunch of grinding to smooth the bottom side.

I cut some tile backer steel mesh to insert into the top. This won't provide any extra strength, but will help keep any cracks tight. Like most concrete designs this hopefully shouldn't do anything and is there should cracks form.

Now is that concrete green enough for you? This is a modified version of my now standard self-consolidating mortar that has been working well. This mix is a high strength 2.5:1 sand to cement mortar at a 0.4 water to cement ratio. The concrete was produced using white cement, high range water reducer, air entrainer, and both cellulose and polypropylene fibers. The green pigment was dosed at 3% by weight of cement.

I seeded some white and forest green glass into the surface and broke down and put some Cheng fossils into the surface. With all of the fibers there will be more than a little grinding and torching to get the surface smooth.